Tag Archives: akwe river

Hello All and Thanks!

Teen is downstairs in the shop with customers,  so I commandeered my own computer to say hello and thank everyone for your encouragement and support and for your patience with Teen as she covered for my half dozen businesses.  I overdid it earlier this morning and had to lay down for a couple hours.  Coming back slowly,  but still have an uphill climb.

I’ll post something separate about my little adventure to the Juneau Health Spa later,  but in the meantime,  I figured I’d take over the fishing report for today…

Mostly cloudy today,  with heavy rain expected tomorrow.  Flows are very low for this time of year and the fish are many.  This is looking like one of the best fishing runs in my lifetime…  And of course I’m in bed for most of it!  Every river is going gangbusters.  I had said weeks ago that the run was looking like it was running a week or so late.  Late AND huge,  as it turned out.  Tsiu is usually close to being done by now,  but they have huge fresh fish with few of any blushing up yet.  That is the first run to come in in the borough,  with the rivers on the southeast side of Yakutat running later.

The Italio,  Akwe and East tend to be a week or two later than the Situk,  which is supposed to be slowing down now and pretty much over by the end of September.  There is no sign of anything slowing down any time soon.  I’d expect our run this year to be good throughout the end of October and on the latest streams – into November.  There are so many fish that none of the fly fishermen are whining about the commercial nets…  At all.  And fly fishermen do like to whine…

Here are the current flow condition:


A little bit of rain early this morning,  but 306 CFS for this time of year is not unheard-of,  but unusual.  “Normal” is 557.  So all these additional fish are just crammed into moderately low water,  making the fishing extremely easy.  Best flies are the black and white Dolly Llamas,  but also anything with pink,  or chartreuse.

And the fish are really huge this year.  I have exceeded 25lbs on the Akwe while commercial fishing,  so this year with the fish running larger than normal,  if anyone wants to challenge the state record for silvers,  I bet the New Italio and Akwe have at least a few fish that can top it.

And…  I think I’m going to go lay down again…  Phone lines for the airport are still down and Alaska Airlines has cancelled their flights for today and yesterday because of it.  The phone company is supposed to send someone to Yakutat tomorrow to fix the issue,  but unless they land a jet here,  I’m not sure how we’ll get the repair tech in…  Most of the people who have been stuck these extra couple days are thrilled to have the excuse to fish the extra time…  REALLY thrilled.


Fall is here (and falling)

Heavy rains expected for the next several days,  after mostly rain through the past week.  I was down in Juneau all week,  so a little behind on my updates,  but…

All the rivers are pretty flooded right now,  but not blown out.  Flying home yesterday,  we passed over the East,  Akwe and Italio systems and all were too dark to see anything in the water.  I did hear from a group just off the Italio today and they said fishing was GREAT.  High water,  but “the kids” were able to hook 4 fish in 4 casts.  So fishing on the Italio seems about normal…  Every cast,  or nearly so – even in a flood and storm.

When we landed,  the Trans Northern Super DC-3 was on the ramp.  They overflew Tsiu because the strip was flooded.  Had to bring their passengers into Yakutat,  to be shuttled out to Tsiu in the smaller planes.  Nice to see a beautiful DC-3 flying in Yakutat,  even if it isn’t mine!

Talked to a group on their first visit to Yakutat.  They went out with Bob Fraker on the Ahrnklin and had an exceptional day.  Lots of silvers,  bears and moose.  They also floated the Situk one day and did OK and did two days on the salt.  Easily limited on silvers and caught two big halibut yesterday.  They said they would lower their herring down a few feet and it would get hammered by a silver immediately.

A couple other groups reported good fishing at the Situk lower landing even in the high water.  Last night the Situk was 520 CFS.  By morning long after the rains had subsided,  it shot up over 700 CFS,  but was down to mid-600’s now.

The forecast is calling for another 3 inches to fall by Tuesday,  so if it isn’t flooded by now,  it will be…  It is going to be a wet week!  Here is the forecast:


Hydrologic Outlook
National Weather Service Juneau AK
707 AM AKDT Sun Aug 27 2017


The northeast gulf coast including Yakutat has received 2 to 3
inches of rainfall from Saturday through Sunday morning. Rain
showers will continue Sunday night before diminishing early Monday
morning. After the brief break in rainfall Monday morning, a warm
front will lift north and bring another round of potentially
heavy rain from Monday afternoon through Tuesday night. Three
inches of rainfall is forecasted for this event. Given saturated
conditions, the entire northeast gulf coast region including
Yakutat will experience rises in rivers and streams through

Detailed Forecast
This Afternoon

Showers and possibly a thunderstorm. High near 56. East wind around 10 mph. Chance of precipitation is 80%.

Showers and possibly a thunderstorm before 1am, then scattered showers. Low around 48. East wind 5 to 10 mph becoming light southeast. Chance of precipitation is 80%.

Isolated showers before 7am, then rain after 10am. High near 58. Northeast wind 5 to 10 mph. Chance of precipitation is 80%.

Monday Night
Rain. The rain could be heavy at times. Low around 50. Southeast wind around 15 mph. Chance of precipitation is 100%.

Rain, mainly before 10am. High near 61. East wind 10 to 15 mph. Chance of precipitation is 80%.

Tuesday Night
Rain. The rain could be heavy at times. Low around 53. Chance of precipitation is 100%.

Rain. The rain could be heavy at times. High near 57. Chance of precipitation is 90%.

Wednesday Night
Showers likely. Mostly cloudy, with a low around 49.

Showers likely. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 54.

Thursday Night
Showers likely. Mostly cloudy, with a low around 49.

Showers likely. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 56.

Friday Night
Showers likely. Mostly cloudy, with a low around 49.

Showers likely. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 56.

Early Word from Tsiu

I’m starting to get pestered about what the run is doing on the Tsiu,  so I’d better get a posting of what I know (which isn’t much…).

There has been fish in the Tsiu for a couple weeks now.  The first group from Dierick’s just left and the second group just arrived.  I didn’t talk to them,  but word from YCA is that they said fishing was just “OK”.  Right now,  the river is really flooded,  so probably pretty marginal fishing this early.  They did get a lot of rain (so did the East,  but virtually nothing here in town and on the Situk) out there.

So this isn’t much of a report…  Nothing first or even second hand.  Still pretty early in the season though.  I did talk to some of the Veterinarian group that always comes for this pink salmon season.  They said this was by far the best fishing they have ever had.  Pinks on the river,  silvers in the bay and really good halibut fishing.  Guys were landing big halibut in those little bay skiffs Leonard’s Landing rents.  They were trolling for silvers and catching halibut up high!

As their week ended this weekend,  the bite for silvers seemed to slow down in the bay, indicating those fish are starting to move toward the rivers now.  Also had word from the Italio that there are a lot of fish out there already – sockeye still and quite a few silvers showing up in the Akwe and New Italio.  Still mostly pinks in the Middle Italio.

That’s about all I have for right now though.  Fish and Game pulled the weir and the last counting day was August 10th.  A good run over-all,  with 91,146 sockeye counted (they had over 1,100 counted the last day,  so the run will definitely get over 100,000 when all is said and done) and 1,187 large kings (with an additional 22 counted the last day).  They are tracking the other species this year for the first time,  so showing 263,780 pinks through the weir before it was pulled.  I have no idea how they are supposed to accurately count 25,845 humpies on the last day of the weir,  while also counting those sockeye,  kings,  plus 20 silvers and 51 chum…  Severe thumb cramps,  clicking the hand counter…

My guess is that we see maybe half of the pink run in the Fish and Game total count,  since they are still coming in by 25,000+ daily.  But a few hundred silvers and chum mixed in there for variety.

Our Subsistence Week on the Akwe

The Fish and Game biologist decided to close the Akwe River by emergency order last week.  We closed the shop and went out anyway!  Gorgeous sunny weather to start the week,  then it turned foggy and drizzly for when we needed to fly out.  So opposite of what we’d want – drizzle when fishing and sunny when flying…


Not many fish in the confluence hole, just a few about 100 feet below.

I dropped the kids off the day before,  then Teen and I flew out late Saturday.  Tanis and Eden had much of the chores done.  Someone had borrowed our ATV sometime last fall and didn’t put it back under cover,  so a bear ate the seat ad the fuel tank was full of crud and water.  We spent most of Saturday getting the carburetor and tank cleaned out and the Honda running again,  followed by getting the boat on wheels and the outboard running again too Sunday morning.


What is left of our Honda seat

Sunday noon,  we were ready to take the boat from the Italio to the Akwe.  Launched it,  went upstream to set a subsistence net and take a look at the river and fishing holes.  The week before,  the biologist flew the river and didn’t see any fish at all.  This time,  we saw a few from the air Friday and many more by Sunday from the boat.  We set the net in a pretty crappy spot – wide,  shallow and flat with less than 1/3rd of the channel blocked.  Went back to the cabin for lunch.  An hour later,  the kids went out to check the net and found 83 sockeye waiting.  We only wanted 30…  OOPS!

We spent the rest of the afternoon cleaning and icing the catch.  Monday,  the weather was terrible,  so had to wait till 3pm to fly back to town with the girls and gear first,  then Tanis and fish last.  Didn’t get ready to start canning till about 6pm.

Cleaning and icing the fish,  with a school of baby salmon eating their aunts’ guts…

We put up 9 1/2 cases of jarred sockeye.  We haven’t canned fish for a few years,  so this will be nice to have through the winter.  Subsistence is a vital part of rural Alaska life.  It is so expensive to ship food in by air or boat that our local seafood and moose are our primary staples.  We dropped off half the fish at Glacier Bear and had them vac-pack and freeze them.  Saved one to bake fresh fir dinner.  And found a 5 gallon bucket of frozen moose meat in the chest freezer that was intended for grinding for burger,  so we canned it in chunks.  2 1/2 cases of pints in a 5 gallon bucket of moose meat,  in case you need to know for the future…

Took two days to process all the fish,  but we’ll have protein through the dark winter months this year.  I would have rather fished through the entire weekend and sold my catch,  but they are opening us this week.  Hopefully there will still be a good run ahead,  even though the Situk seems to be slowing down a bit.

A side-by-side comparison of raw and cooked sockeye.  That brilliant colored meat is what they try to dye the farmed fish to look like (and fail).  Cooked…  not so spectacular.  But it tastes incredible and is naturally packed with all that Omega 3 fat we’re supposed to be taking in pill form…  Good to have a full pantry.

And a boring video of Tanis and I cleaning fish…  You have to cut the dorsal fin off subsistence fish,  so it can’t be sold to the fish plant.  The boat was tilted and the seat very slick.  Hard to do anything with the slimy fish in that seat…  I don’t think the videos show for those of you on e-mail subscriptions.  Sorry.

The Start of Our Season

Tanis and I head out to the Akwe River tomorrow to open up the cabin and get ready for our commercial fishing season.  As we flew home from Juneau last week,  it was high tide – sun glare in my eyes – wind whipping whitecaps on the river,  so I could not see any fish in the Akwe,  or New Italio.  That doesn’t mean there aren’t fish,  but that I couldn’t see…

The Situk run is still going gangbusters though.  The commercial fishery opened last Sunday there and it definitely took the edge off the number of fish in the lower river.  Sunday was still great,  but by Monday and Tuesday,  the fish were few and far between.  The best fishing right now is in the middle river from the cabins down. Although 33,000 fish have been through the weir as of Monday,  they haven’t made it up to 9 Mile in any great numbers yet.  So that’s 33,000 sockeye between the bridge and the weir…  WOW!

I talked to the fish plant manager yesterday and he said the fish are huge.  As in 10lb sockeye…  He said loading fish boxes was like silver season.  That plays into my delusional fantasy that last year’s dismal run is also coming this year…  Sockeye can be a 4 year or a 5 year fish.  Possibly if conditions were bad last summer,  the 4 year olds could have decided to be 5 year olds…  That’s my hope anyway,  since last year’s Akwe run was horrible.

Last year,  Tanis and I set our nets and immediately caught a nice big king (that I dropped and didn’t land).  That was the only fish we saw for the week!  Not even a dolly for dinner!  I had never had a zero fish week before.  The next two weeks,  we managed to land about 1200lbs of sockeye total with both nets.  Fish and Game shut us down for the season after that.  The Akwe has been having issues in recent years anyway.  The glacier no longer comes into Akwe Lake (it used to hang over a huge cliff and drain into the lake cooling the water).  Now the Akwe is just foreland drainage.  On an overcast day,  the water is 73 degrees F.  The majority of the sockeye just hang out in the New Italio/Akwe confluence hole for weeks and eventually they give up on the deadly Akwe temperature water an go up the Italio at a cozy low-40’s temp.  Sockeye are extremely temperature sensitive,  so they need cooler water.

The past couple years,  we have had warm summers.  In the Situk/Ahrnklin Inlet,  the water along the edge warms more than the deeper center.  The nets are usually along the edge,  so we have seen decent weir counts only because all the fish bypassed the warmer edges of the inlet and swam past the nets.  Not so this past week,  where the commercial guys had a really good opening week.  They also did really well out in the bay.  Lots of fish out there in the ocean moving slowly up the coast.

I’ll have a proper first-hand report from out at the Akwe for the guy renting the Ryman cabin on Tuesday.  In the meantime,  spectacular fishing on the Situk with not a whole lot of people out fishing.

Three Weeks of Sun!

We have had more than three straight weeks of gorgeous sun.  The rivers and streams have all but disappeared.  Situk’s flow is down to a paltry 118 CFS,  but water temp is down to a high of 43F and low of 40F.  That means we are in the temperature range for the fall steelhead to start coming in!


These sunny clear days are to continue through the rest of the week,  with a chance that we’ll see rain moving in by Saturday.  We need it!  The local subsistence moose season opened three days ago and from what I have heard,  everyone who wanted a moose seems to have gotten a moose.  We still have quite a bit in the freezer and with Tanis away this winter at boarding school,  we aren’t going through nearly as much food as we usually do…  These photos are from last year…

Chris just came back today from the Akwe River (and Yakutat Coastal flew their last flight and headed south for the winter too).  Chris said the fishing on the Akwe these past three weeks has been absolutely spectacular.  Every cast…  which he said gets a little boring after a while…  Same thing off the Italio – spectacular end to the season with tons of fresh silvers,  once the hordes of fly-outs had subsided.

Situk had a late push of fish as well,  but not like Akwe and Italio.  There was a wave of smaller hens that came in for about a week,  but it is all but done (again).  Lost and Tawah are really a bust.  One group came through a couple days ago that caught some nice sea-run cutthroat on Tawah,  but all the salmon were old and spent.  There are no fish at all in any of the drainage ditches around the airport…  Usually,  we see (and smell) a lot of rotting carcasses with silvers scattering under the branches as we take our nightly walk around the loop.  Absolutely no fish at all anywhere around here!


So now we just wait for confirmation for the fall steelhead run.  With Chris back,  he’ll be anxious to get out there,  but probably needs a few days to catch up on things around here and get some sleep.  I’ll let you know what we find in about a week.  In the meantime,  we’re gearing up for the winter storage season,  getting the hangar cleaned and organized to fit as much in as we can.  Although we have more space this year than we have had in the past,  we expect to fill up quicker because of quite a bit of new storage coming in.

I’m still working on getting all the artifacts put away for the season too.  Boy,  it has been a very crowded year,  but all in very good ways.  We certainly learned a lot about organizing an air show and fly in,  even though we ended up cancelling the main event.  I had never cooked for more than a dozen people,  so cooking for 80 was a learning experience.  Hopefully we’ll catch up and recover quickly and I’ll get some of the things posted that I want to talk about.


A repost of John Hohl’s gorgeous steelhead,  as a primer for what’ll be in the Situk in the next several weeks…

Hard to Stay Motivated

This has been a hard season to stay motivated about posting yet another dismal fishing report…  That’s my excuse for the lack of fresh ones.  “Yep,  another mediocre day on the Situk…”.

Situk had a nice little shot of fish come in fresh two days ago,  but these fish pushed hard to get a couple miles upstream before they slowed down.  The previous day probably had the same thing happen because there was another batch of chromers about half-way down the float.  Otherwise,  all the fish above that point seem dark and lethargic.  Didn’t talk to anyone yesterday that had fished the Situk,  but one group was able to land a few nice ones on Tawah.  Not a lot of fish in Lost or Tawah,  but the ones that were there were feisty and active.  Still hearing that the fish are huge this year.  Not many,  but the ones that are being caught are tipping the scales around 16lbs pretty consistently.

Best fishing by far the past week has been off the Italio.  Both Old and Middle are fishing really well.  A group leaving town yesterday said the fishing had been slower than normal,  but they were leaving with more pounds than they ever have due to the big size of the fish.  Reports off the Akwe have also been very good lately,  from both day fly-outs and the two camps out there.

The Middle Italio is of course my home,  where I grew up and where I raised my kids.  I’m a little protective of it and its reputation.  This season has been hard on that tiny little stream.  First off,  the run on the Italio has been just as poor as everywhere else this side of the bay,  so fishing hasn’t been all that great.  But it has been better than the dismal fishing most have experienced on the Situk.  Because of that,  the Middle has been overwhelmed by massive numbers of fly-outs.  The fish weren’t stacking up like normal,  so the fishermen ended up on top of each other,  making the experience horrible for everyone involved.  Yes,  most people still left with their limits,  but it took all day to land a measly 4 fish.  That should usually take about 15 minutes with poppers,  let alone sub-surface streamers.  Italio was one of the better rivers and definitely the highliner for the east-side streams,  but it was still poor for what we’re used to.

Middle Italio is doing good right now though and will continue to do well throughout most of October.  Tsiu is also continuing to be great even now.  The rivers on the west side of the bay haven’t had any of these numbers problems,  unlike ALL of the east-side streams.  Good runs,  consistent bite and a lot less pressure than over here.  A lot of the best fishing spots are self-limiting,  since there are no real landing strips and the air taxi’s have to time their drop-offs and pick-ups with the tide and flood conditions.  It has been a far better experience for everyone who flew that direction instead of Italio this year.

Now we’re just waiting for the fall steelhead run on the Situk.  I just talked with one of the Fish and Game biologists who spent the past month out on the Tsiu.  They only had three commercial fishermen this season,  so that pressure was very light.  They caught about 20 steelhead in their nets out there this season and many of the sporties also landed steelhead.  There were a couple landed on the Situk as well and the weir saw a couple before they pulled it in early August.  We still have about a dozen degrees to drop before we should see the real run come in,  but that could be happening a little earlier than November.  I’ll try to keep as close an eye on that as I can this fall,  since there are a lot of people hanging on a last minute decision to come for the fall steelhead run.

Big changes coming in the new year around here!  The Yakutat Lodge sold as of October 1st and the new owners took over yesterday.  They are still open and plan to be serving food for another week or two.  They may keep going through November,  but it depends on how things go over the next couple weeks.  It would be nice to still have some services through the fall steelhead season.